Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Proyecta UC/Welcome to Maintencillo


Hola Amigos,
Finally, I get to sit down and share some adventures. January has already proved to be one the best months in Chile, but also one of the busiest. I said goodbye to my sister on the evening of the 1st, which was a tough goodbye. After 20 days with her after not seeing her for 6 months, I wanted more time! However, I didn't have much time to sit around and let the sad feelings sink in. On the 3rd, I left for Proyecta UC (Universidad Católica) with host university  There were ten groups of about ten people each, assigned to a different small town in the regions of either Rauco or Hualañé. I was put in the town of Quilico, in the Hualañé region. When I got to campus the first day before departure, I was definitely feeling nervous. I knew I was the only foreigner in my volunteer group and would be the only on in the town as well. However, these feelings quickly disappeared when I met my group, probably some of the nicest young Chileans I've ever met. 
 For some background information, Quilico is a really small town that was badly affected by the huge earthquake in 2010. The once adobe houses have been rebuilt to be more modern. After the earthquake, there was unfortunately a fire that burned down the local schoolhouse. Now, the kids in the town have to take a bus everyday. There is no telephones, internet, or cell service (unless you walk 15 minutes to the top of a hill). 
The next 10 days can only be summed up as amazing. Our task was to build a playground equipment for Quilico, although it wasn't pure construction. We also hosted talleres (workshops) for the locals, usually arts and crafts with household items. I also got to play with the kids a lot, who were just adorable and sometimes crazy. They called all of us tío/tía, so I was “Tía Eliza.” I think what they enjoyed most of all was snapping photos on my camera. The older people within the community were just about the most welcoming and nicest people ever. They invited us over for onces (tea time) and lunches, and they would often drop off some fresh baked bread, kuchen(a kind of German cake), or a homecooked dish. The place we were staying didn’t have running water, so they ran hoses through our window to fill up giant tubs and offered up their showers. A few of them even helped with the construction! Their kindness just proved you don’t need to have much to be a giving person. The simplest gestures can still mean a lot.
My group, who were all Chilean students from my host university, was also really a great bunch. At times the language barrier could be tough, especially given the fact they used a ton of slang. But they were really patient about my confusion and I tried to make light of the situation by joking that my Spanish was “turned off” (as in “Sorry haven’t had my coffee yet…Spanish is still off!). One of our bosses taught me some funny phrases. My favorite was “Estoy Liz Taylor” as in “Estoy lista”(I’m ready), because I guess Liz Taylor and lista kind of sound the same.
As far as construction went, I helped where I could since I didn’t have much experience. I tried out everything though, including hammering and sawing. We were actually working up until the last night.   That didn’t stop us from taking a break to have an asado(barbecue) with practically the entire community. It came out of nowhere, to be honest. I went to take a shower, came back and suddenly there were 3 or 4 grills piled with meat and the locals were setting up tables and food outside! This was there last big gesture of gratitude.A few people went around and said a few words of thanks. They even asked me to say a few words…in English!  None of  the community members understood it, but they just really wanted to hear me speak it. I thought that was really sweet, especially since I think English kind of sounds boring compared to Spanish. 
         The final morning came and I it was a bittersweet departure. Part of me was ready to get back to consistent showers, more than four hours of sleep each night, and internet service. At the same time, I was really going to miss the people of Quilico and the simple kindess they offered.  
At the barbecue on the last night. Quilico I will always remember you!

         With little down time in Santiago, I am already in Maintencillo, a little beach town about two and a half hours north of Santiago. I signed up for a help exchange network, where you work in exchange for meals and a room. The woman I’m staying with, Ethel owns a set of cottages and is about of the sweetest people I’ve ever met. Her husband works in Santiago, but he comes every weekend to help with repairs. All of her kids are grown up, but I've gotten to know her daughter who is on vacation between graduation and a new job. My first day of work was spent clearing a ton of weeds from a lot between two cottages. There’s also little tasks, like tidying up the cottages between users. And I’m learning some more cooking basics. I even got to teach Ethel one of my favorite dishes my mom makes.
When I'm not working, I have time to actually do summer reading, journal, and take walks on the beach. Ethel and our maid Ellie have also been taking me to a baile entrentenido class, which is like zumba witha  Latin twist. I really like it! Since it's free, it's  in a new location each week. The first one I went to was outdoors, with a view of the ocean!
All in all January can be summed up as living the simple life and stepping off the beaten track. Between volunteering in a town with no phones or internet to coming to the simple beach town of Maintencillo, I'm really just taking time away from busy Santiago or super touristy places. As a result, my Spanish has been improving significantly lately. I don't think I've ever gone days and days speaking zero English until now.

I'll be back in Santiago early February, to meet up with my Dad. I'm counting down the days till I see him! Chao for now!




Wednesday, January 2, 2013

New Years, Valparaiso Style

I'm standing on a hillside holding exactly 12 grapes. The last bits of meat from the asado (barbecue) are being passed around on a cutting board. A random firecracker goes off, blasting red light upon the crowds of people shouting "Chi! Chi! Chi! Le!Le!Le! VIVA CHILE!" These are the random moments I remember in the seconds remaining of 2012. Let me step back to the moments leading up to the best New Years I've ever had, spent in Valparaiso...
As soon as I knew my sister was going to be in Chile for New Years as well, I decided it must be spent epically. And what better way to spend it than in Valparaiso, the site of the biggest fireworks show in Latin America and second biggest in the world? Getting there was an interesting experience. We overestimated our ability to go out the night before  and be able to catch a 10:00 a.m. bus the next day. Part of it was also showing up to the wrong bus terminal, since it wasn't listed on our ticket. So after missing the bus, we bought another ticket for what I thought was 11:30 p.m. that night.  My ear for Spanish  must have been cheating me that day, because I could have sworn he said "por la noche." So I basically had a heart attack when we returned home and noticed the tickets said 11:30 a.m. that day! Another bus missed. So we returned to the bus terminal and thank goodness the kind ticket man got us on another bus at 9:30 p.m., free of any extra charge! We really lucked out...
We got in by 11 and went right to the couchsurfers house, where my friend Andrea from my program was staying too. Our host introduced us to the other couchsurfers, from all different parts (Germany, Brazil, France...). I knew right away it was going to be a great time, albeit crowded. Valparaiso is a population of roughly 260,000 people, but for New Years there are over 2 million! We crashed by around 2, my sister and I sharing a twin mattress. We couldn't both lay on our backs the whole time. But that's what you gotta do when you can't pay for a $50 a night hostel (they jacked up prices for New Years).
We woke up at around 10:30 am on New Years, and after waiting for the bathroom a while (10+ couchsurfers, one bathroom...) Andrea, Claire, and I headed out to explore the city. I had been there once before, but it was nice to explore freely without a formal tour. The street vendors were selling fireworks, noisemakers, champagne, and yellow underwear (supposed to wear for good luck apparently) on every corner.
We got home later in the afternoon to get ready for the night. After, we met up with the other couchsurfers for a barbecue outside the house. And the suspension rose. 4...3...2...1 hour to midnight. The streets got fuller and fuller, as people waited for the fireworks. Finally one minute to midnight...but the funny thing is we didn't have a countdown. No big ball to watch on t.v. So we all looked at our phones and were asking "Is it midnight? Yeah! I think so!...Wait my watch still says 11:59..oh wait never mind! It's midnight!" I bit into my first grape hesitantly(another tradition), then BOOM!, the first firework went off to officially ring in the New Year. After that I shoveled down all 12 grapes and joined in with the cries of "Feliz Año Nuevo!" It was quite a frenzy, wishing  happy New Year to everyone around me while trying to admire the amazing fireworks spectacle , with fireworks being lit off of 8 boats or so across the harbor. The show went on for what felt like forever, although it was probably 15 minutes. Soon afterwards we headed down to the main plaza, which was mania. A DJ blasted music from the stage while everyone danced in the streets, street vendors sold choripan (sausage on bread) to partygoers, and noisemakers went off in all directions. Our couchsurfing group, plus our host as the leader, stayed together dancing for a while. Eventually we wandered back up to the house, shouting "Feliz Año Nuevo!" to every group we passed that responded with equal enthusiasm. The fact that everyone partied in the streets created this great sense of energy, like all 2 million people were truly celebrating together.
We crashed close to sunrise, got a hefty two hours of sleep, and woke up to make it to the bus terminal. We couldn't miss this bus...my sister had a flight that evening to catch! Now, if it's possible for a whole city to be exhausted and hungover, Valparaiso would be it. Piles of trash and broken bottles littered the street. The last of the party goers drifted back to their houses like zombies (although there were a few locos who appeared to be still going strong). Even the stray dogs looked wiped out, snoozing in the park and under street benches.
We made it to our bus in plenty of time and were knocked out all the way to Santiago. So that's New Years in Valpo for you. I felt like this blog post was rushed, but really it's because everything went by so fast! I have to say the best thing about this trip was deciding to couchsurf. It was my first experience, so of course I was nervous. But, if you pick a good host that makes all the difference. We definitely did! He not only welcomed a large number of people from all over the globe in his home, but also kept most of the whole group together through the celebrations. The crowded living quarters weren't even as awkward as I thought they would be. Everyone was just so happy to come to experience New Years here, that they were able to abandon the need for complete comfort. Plus, sticking with a local during it all was actually the fun and safest option, much better than a few gringas trying to manage alone. He knew the best bus routes and made sure we got home safely. Seriously, if we were walking in the street he would stop and look back to make sure no one got left behind in the crowds.
My sister left yesterday night, which made me really sad of course. But I'm trying to keep myself busy overcome it. I've been packing up, getting ready to leave tomorrow for an eleven day volunteer project in Quilico, a small town in a sector called Hualañé. I'm getting pretty excited about it! Chao for now!